An interview on heritage, brand-building
and the passion for fragrance
1. How did your background in fashion/architecture help you build your brand?
Diverse backgrounds bring a completely fresh and different facet to how we approach and think about designing flowers and/or fragrances. There’s an inherent order and an anchoring to concept in architecture which bodes well in fragrance creation, and fashion is rooted in texture, color, pattern and composition, so these backgrounds have been instrumental in guiding our aesthetics and creativity, ensuring we are always looking at things from a unique perspective.
2. What are the most important qualities of your brand?
Authenticity. We are a brand whose products and services were born out of a true passion for what we do, and we are experts in our fields. But it goes further: We are interested in promoting scent that makes connections to places, history and nature with the belief that modern perfumery should be less revolutionary and more evolutionary in process - where a respect for nature, the raw materials and the art of fine craftsmanship are the foundation of our brand values.
Interested in our answers to the other questions? Read more here.
The cacao tree yields one of the
greatest pleasures known to man
The history of the cacao tree has roots in the ancient Central and South American cultures. The Mayas were the first known to have cultivated the trees in what is today known as modern day Mexico. Chocolate, the familiar product that the cacao pods yields, originates from the Aztecan word “xocolatl” which means “bitter water.” Cacao itself, derives from the word “Kakaw” and was not discovered by Europeans until roughly a decade after Christopher Columbus discovered America.
Today, the cacoa tree also grows in tropical countries like Ecuador and Brazil, and yields fruit commonly called cabooses, directly on it’s trunk or branches. When they are harvested, they are split open with machetes to gather their beans, which are a pearl-like white. The beans are then washed, fermented by immersion, dried before being roasted to enhance the aroma, and then ground into powder. During the grinding process, the fat content dissolves, producing a thick buttery liquid. Our Cacao Tabac is an expression of both the cacao pod and the contextually rich history of the region from where it is grown.
An ordinary medical device, a genius concept,
an artist’s love of nature and how it revealed
the inner beauty of flowers
True entrepreneurial and creative spirit, dictates that even the most banal of items can expose themselves to alternative uses in the most interesting and surprising ways. In the 1930’s, Dain Tasker, a doctor with a love of nature and photography, decided to turn the attention of his x-ray machine away from its everyday human patients and directed it to one of his favorite subjects: flowers. What this revealed was truly spectacular.
The stunning, ghostly images, forced us to look at flowers in a very different light. Like all great art, they presented themselves in a way we’d never seen before - ordinary flowers became extraordinary and with their anatomies now exposed for the first time, they revealed intimate body parts, corporeal structures and most interestingly, their souls.
X-rays are now used ubiquitously in science, art, construction, archaeology and several other industries, to better understand an object’s composition and state, but who would have thought that an ordinary doctor using a common medical device to check for broken bones, would open a window to the soul of flowers?
From a bacteria infected tree to the world
of Royalty, oud is pure gold for perfumistas
There are few raw materials that don’t come from living, healthy sources. Along with ambergris (whale vomit), oud is one of those few.
It is expressed from the core of the agar tree, though the specific trees that yield oud are in fact decaying and infected with a mold known as Phialophora parasitica. As a natural defense mechanism, the tree produces a thick, dark amber colored, boldy redolent resin to protect itself. The resin remains inside the tree until it is tapped and extracted by highly specialized harvesters. The trees are grown throughout south-east Asia and oud is one of the most expensive of all natural raw ingredients, reaching a price tag of up to $30,000/kilo.
The scent itself, from warm and woody to smoky and animalic, varies considerably depending on a multitude of factors, but one thing is certain: it is beautiful and potent so it is not for the faint of heart. Too get a sense of its beauty, try Kyara Clove or Imperial Oud.
The gold standard for all rose cultivation and harvesting
comes to a close for the season
For five weeks between May and early June, in a small area of Grasse in Southern France, dozens of sun-bronzed local harvesters in straw hats move up and down the rows of bushes, gently but with purpose, snapping off their pink blooms and gingerly placing them into the apron pouches they wear. They are on a mission and time is not their friend. Like battlefield medics who understand the fragility of life, they must collect, bag and transport their fragrant bounty back to the processing facility before the rose heads begin to decompose and lose their stunningly vibrant aroma.
As the blooms pull up to the facility, men, young and old, unload dozens of burlap sacs which are quickly transferred to the plant. Inside, as the blooms await their fate in the extractors, processing vats where their oil will be expressed, men with pitchforks and shovels repeatedly “churn” the large pile of roses to keep them from crushing each other and delaying their demise. As the multi-tiered extractors are prepared, thousands of roses are then dumped in, their fate sealed inside the vats where Hexane, a powerful solvent, is pumped in to facilitate the molecular extraction of rose oil.
The result leads to a solid “concrete,” a waxy aromatic disc with the rose essence which is further processed to reveal a reddish-golden concentrated rose absolute oil. What results after this laborious process is one of the world’s most exquisite aromas in the world, which can be found in Rose Immortelle, Pétales d’Amour, Scarlet Flower and several other Belle Fleur fragrances.